Bergeron Pecans: Still Cracking After 100 Years

Story, photos and recipes by Cynthia Nobles 

Any cook worth her pralines is familiar with Bergeron Pecans, the New Roads company that packs its nuts in those clear cellophane bags that many South Louisiana grocery stores carry. What you might not know is that Bergeron’s is Louisiana’s largest pecan sheller, processing half of our state’s product. It’s also remarkable that this family-owned company has been in the pecan business since 1910.

On a recent visit to Bergeron’s processing plant along False River, Andre Bergeron, part owner and manager of the company, took me around. The tour began in the retail store, which mostly sells a variety of shelled pecan grades, including the popular plump and flavorful Elliott, as well as bulk unshelled pecans.

Andre proudly pointed to walls of framed black and white photos, and one lined with portraits. “That’s Horace, my grandfather,” he said, nodding to a painting of his bespeckled ancestor. “The building we’re standing in was his general store. In the early 1900s he’d trade merchandise for local pecans.”

Horace’s pecan business steadily grew, and in 1941, his sons decided to take the family venture nationally. Bergeron’s invested in top-end machinery and expanded the shelling plant. In little time the United States Pecan Shelling Association had awarded them with the coveted title of “Highest Quality Pecans.”

Today, Bergeron Pecans buys and processes pecans from growers around the state. “We used to have a lot of our own trees,” Andre said, “but hurricanes have wiped them out.” He also said that Pointe Coupee Parish alone used to produce over 6 million pounds. Now the region averages only about 1.5 million. This past growing season has been particularly depressed, with heavy rains and scab disease causing local tree stress.

A walk through one of Bergeron’s massive warehouses began with a machine that graded by size. At a washing station unshelled pecans were scrubbed in a 180-degree water bath. They went on to a cracker that cracks 400 pecans a minute. Then it was on to a sheller that divided pecan meat from shells. An infrared “eye” sorted them by size. “The pecan shells,” Andre said, pointing to a dozen or so large barrels, “go to a plant in DeRidder that uses them for fuel.”
            
After another wash and dry, shelled pecans go through final grading on a conveyor belt manned by workers who pick, sort, and pack into boxes. At the computerized bagging machine, workers seal shelled and sorted pecans into 8-ounce, 12-ounce, and 16-ounce cellophane bags, the company’s most popular size. During pecan picking season, October through December, Bergeron’s can shell about 40,000 pounds of pecans a day.

“Pecan pieces mostly go to wholesale customers who use them for commercial goods,” Andre said. “Grocery stores want halves. And we have a big mail-order business that sells pecan halves and pieces, and roasted and candied.”
           
As we wound through a maze of warehouse rooms full of more machinery and barrels of cleaned pecans, I couldn’t help but notice how everything looked so tidy. “We’re inspected by the state and the federal government,” Andre said. “We’re proud of passing those inspections.”
           
 Andre reflected on how the pecan business has changed over the years. “In the beginning, we’d ship by rail to New Orleans and even Chicago.” Shipping now is mostly by contracted truck lines that deliver from farms and to retail outlets. 

“In the 1960s, Louisiana could produce 40 million pounds a year,” Andre said. “Now a good year only makes 12-15.” Fifteen states produce pecans commercially. Georgia, which produces 170-200 million pounds a year, tops the list. At the last available reporting, Louisiana is sixth. “And Mexico has jumped in in a big way,” Andre said. “They’re really cutting into our market.” 
           
In spite of growing competition and massive setbacks from Mother Nature, Andre says that national pecan demand is as strong as ever. “Although we’re struggling to find product,” he says, “business is extremely good.”
            
That’s not at all surprising. Pecans are a good source of protein and unsaturated fats, and they’re loaded with essential amino acids, as well as a boatload of minerals. Besides that, this native Louisiana nut just plain tastes good. 
            
Horace Bergeron would be proud of his legacy. It’s worth the drive to New Roads to load up on a few boxes of his descendants’ pecans. Pecans keep well frozen up to a year. But if you’re like me, you never give them the chance to merit freezing. 
             

Do you have a Louisiana agriculture story or a recipe you’d like to share? Contact me at [email protected].
 
Cynthia Nobles is the cookbook editor for LSU Press and the author/co-author of several historical cookbooks, including A Confederacy of Dunces Cookbook, The Delta Queen Cookbook, and The Fonville Winans Cookbook.
            
 
 Pecan Crusted Chicken with Honey Mustard
Makes 4 servings
 
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
½ cup all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons paprika
1½ teaspoons salt, plus extra for sprinkling
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
¼ cup Dijon mustard, divided
2 large eggs, beaten
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
1 cup finely chopped pecans
1 tablespoon melted salted butter
¼ cup honey
 
1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Oil the bottom of a sheet pan or line with parchment. Flatten chicken breasts to ½ inch. In a plate, mix together flour, paprika, 1½ teaspoons salt, black pepper, and cayenne. In a shallow bowl beat together 1 tablespoon mustard and eggs. In another shallow bowl, mix together breadcrumbs, pecans, and butter.
2. Dip chicken breasts into flour mixture, then egg mixture. Firmly press on pecan mixture to coat. Lightly sprinkle coated chicken with salt. Bake until browned and cooked through, 25-30 minutes, or until a thermometer inserted reads 160°F.
3. While chicken is baking, combine remaining mustard and honey. Serve chicken warm drizzled with honey mustard. 
 
 
 
Heavenly Hash Candy
Makes 64 pieces
 
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
12 ounces semisweet or milk chocolate chips
¼ teaspoon salt
1½ cups miniature marshmallows
1 cup chopped toasted, salted pecans
 
1. Line the bottom and sides of an 8x8-inch baking pan with parchment paper or aluminum foil, letting a few inches paper hang over the sides. In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine condensed milk, chocolate chips, and salt. Over low heat, stir mixture just until chips are melted. (Do not let boil.)
2. Remove from heat and spread ⅓ of chocolate mixture evenly onto bottom of prepared pan. Sprinkle on marshmallows and pecans, and top with remainder of chocolate.
3. Refrigerate until just firm, about 2 hours. Grasp paper overhang and lift candy out of pan. Slice into 1-inch pieces. Store tightly covered at room temperature up to 1 week; in the refrigerator up to 3 weeks; and in the freezer up to 2 months.
 
 
 
Italian Cream Cake
Makes a 9-inch, 3-layer cake
 
This iconic coconut and pecan showstopper is perfect after a holiday meal. 
 
2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups sugar
6 eggs, at room temperature, yolks and whites separated
1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon iodized salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon almond extract
2¼ cups cake flour
1 cup shredded coconut
2⅓ cups finely chopped pecans, divided
Italian Cream Cake Icing (recipe follows)
For garnish: pecan halves
 
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease insides of three 9x2-inch round cake pans (or a 9x13-inch pan). Line bottoms of pans with parchment paper and grease them. Dust insides of pans with flour.
2. In a large bowl, add butter and sugar and beat using medium speed of an electric mixer until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg yolks one at a time, beating well after each addition. 
3. In a small bowl, sir together buttermilk, baking soda, salt, vanilla, and almond extract. Alternate stirring flour and buttermilk mixture into batter, beginning and ending with flour. Stir in coconut and 1 cup chopped pecans.
4. Beat egg whites until stiff, and gently fold into batter. Divide batter among prepared pans, and smooth the tops. Bake until center bounces back when lightly touched, about 30 minutes.
5. Remove layers from oven and cool in pans on a rack 5 minutes. Remove layers from pans and cool completely on racks.
6. To frost, spread ½ cup icing on top of bottom layer and sprinkle with ⅓ cup of remaining chopped pecans. Place second layer over bottom layer and spread with ½ cup icing and ⅓ cup pecans. Place third layer on top and spread icing on top and sides of cake. Decorate with remaining chopped pecans and pecan halves. Can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated.
 
 
Italian Cream Cake Icing
Makes enough to frost one 3-layer or sheet cake
 
12 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1½ sticks butter, at room temperature
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
6 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar
1½ cups shredded coconut
 
In a large bowl, use medium mixer speed to beat together the cream cheese and butter until completely smooth. Beat in vanilla and confectioners’ sugar until smooth. Stir in coconut.
 
 
Pecan Granola
Makes 10 cups
 
Crispy clusters of homemade granola taste nothing like storebought. 
 
2½ cups old-fashioned rolled oats
1½ cups coarsely chopped pecans
1 cup shredded coconut
½ cup pumpkin seeds
½ cup toasted wheat germ
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup honey
½ cup coconut or vegetable oil
1 cup raisins, dried cranberries, or dried cherries
 
1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Line a rimmed sheet pan with heavy duty aluminum foil, letting a few inches foil hang over the pan’s rim. In a large bowl, combine the oats, pecans, coconut, pumpkin seeds, wheat germ, cinnamon, and salt.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the honey and coconut oil. Pour over the dry ingredients and mix well. Spread the mixture into the sheet pan. Bake, stirring thoroughly and re-spreading twice, until medium brown, 25-30 minutes.
3. Remove from oven. Using the foil overhand, lift the granola out of the pan and lay it on a heatproof surface. Use a spatula to mix in the raisins. Press into an even layer and cool to room temperature. Break the granola into clusters and store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 2 weeks, and in the freezer up to 3 months.
 
 
Roasted Pecans
Makes 4 cups
 
1 pound pecan halves
3 tablespoons salted butter, melted
2 teaspoons salt
 
1. Preheat oven to 300°F. In a large bowl, mix together the pecans and melted butter. Spread pecans in one layer on a sheet pan or rimmed cookie sheet. 
2. Bake 15 minutes, then stir and spread again in an even layer. Bake 10 minutes, stir again, and spread evenly. Sprinkle on salt, stir the pecans, and spread evenly again. Bake 5 more minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on the baking sheet. Store pecans in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 3 months, or in the freezer up to 1 year.